🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.